The Front Line Food Diary (John Dory with tarragon mash, kale and a green sauce)

Pan Fried John Dory, tarragon mash, kale and a green sauce. 

Being my first food diary since I left my job in a fancy pants michelin starred place with foams and jellies and all that jazz, you would be forgiven for thinking that my style of food would have become more complex and extremely precise...well it hasn't. If anything I've found myself returning to the basics and finding my feet once again with comfort food. 

Once thing I did learn from my time at Pennyhill was the how great kale was. Quickly pan fried with butter and a good dose a salt and out of the pan in under a minute the irony, crunchy, buttery, richness is a supreme compliment to a whole heap of dishes. So given its seasonality I've done a couple you might like. 

Tarragon Mash.

I'm a big believer of not using roasted potatoes for making mash or chips. Cooking the potato in heavily sea salted water might yield less consistent results due to some over cooking than the roasting method and may prove more difficult when mixing with the butter and cream, but the pay of in depth of flavour having pre seasoned the potato at an early stage makes a massive difference to the end result. Seasoning soups, mash and sauces may well be essential at the end and for reduction sauces you need to be wary of over seasoning at the start as the salt will gain in strength, but a little kick start at the beginning of the process helps build flavour in any dish. 

So get your water sea salty and boil your cut potatoes from cold. Do try to get your potatoes into smallish squares and keep them all the same size so they cook at the same time. Keep an eye on them and drain them when the potato starts falling apart. 

Place equal parts of butter and cream in a pan and heat until the butter has melted. Do not boil.

While still fairly hot pass the potato though a metal sieve using a wooden spoon or similar implement into a warm pan. then quickly pour in the butter cream mixture until you have the desired consistency. Work fast at this and use a plastic spatula if you have one. 

Once mixed season to taste with salt and cayenne or black pepper and add the chopped tarragon just before serving.  

Pan fried John Dory

Have your fish at room temperature then scrape the skin dry using a knife at an angle like a squeegee and pat dry with some kitchen roll (this helps develop a crispy skin). Get your pan medium- high hot with a some groundnut oil (enough to cover the pan). Season your fish generously on the skin side and place in the oil holding it down flat so as not to curl. Add some butter and season the flesh side of the fish. Leave in the pan until the skin is brown and crispy. Turn the fish for 5 seconds and remove from the pan. 

Kale

Wash thoroughly, dry,cut the leaves from the central stem and roughly chop into strips. Get a pan nice and hot with a small amount of oil and throw in the kale with some room temperature butter. Toss in a good amount of salt and keep the kale moving in the butter until its warmed though. Remove straight away. You want the kale to be cooked but retain a bite to it. Keep tasting at you cook it will become obvious when its done. 

Green Sauce

Easy. Chop parsley, anchovies, capers and finely chop some garlic and lightly mix with a generous amount of olive oil. Add some pepper to taste and maybe some salt if you think it still needs it. You could also add other herbs and some cornichons if you feel the urge. 

Plate, eat and enjoy.

 

Comments

[Kavey]

'bout bloody time you're back! Has been too long!

[ChefDylan - From Cook to Chef Blog]

Hey matey, love John Dory, one of my faves for sure!

I am off to Pennyhill Park next week for a week long stage as we have broken up for a 5 week break... looking forward to it... any tips for me??

[thewaroncookbooks]

Thanks Kavey, I should be around for a wee while now. I have a slightly more sociable job.

Dylan, whatever you do don't break any plates. You'll enjoy it though its good experience.

[LexEat!]

Yum yum yum!
I agree re: kale! I have only recently discovered cavolo nero - done the same way - just butter really! Divine!

Your dish looks beautiful.

[Alex]

Great blog, wonderful looking food. Look forward to reading more

[Gourmet Chick]

Looks absolutely amazing - as always. I love john dory.

[thewaroncookbooks]

Lex. I must confess to never being a fan of leafy cabbagy type things, but when you cook them properly you start to realize what the fuss is all about

Alex. Thankyou. Your in my top two right now in masterchef. Maybe my top one. But I cant decide weather or not I like Stacie better or I just want to marry her.

Gourmet Chick. Thankyou, me too. Apart from eating him I also like moving his mouth up and down and making stupid voices.

[Linz]

My favourite fish with a veg I don't use enough. Very nice indeed. When are you cooking it for me then?

[Niamh]

Such a pretty dish. Glad to hear you're sticking with the comfort food, although you do take it to a whole new level.